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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary triumph.